Last week, we visited my in-laws in County Kerry, Ireland. I’d visited the Emerald Isle once before, but never been to Kerry, where my in-laws live part time. Kerry has it all, from rugged coastline and the famous cliffs, to mountains and charming towns of all sizes. So I present to you, the travel guide I wish I’d had!
Dingle
Dingle was possibly my favorite stop of the trip. It’s an amazing seaside town on a peninsula. Each building is painted a different pastel color, and there are shops for everything from souvenirs to crepes and coffee.
We spent a morning wandering, popping into different shops as we went, and found a few favorites:
- The Little Cheese Shop. My brother-in-law found this hole-in-the-wall place, which had an amazing spread of cheeses cut to order, as well as salami and chorizo. Compared to the US, prices were incredibly reasonable – just a few euro for a full size piece that would cost $8-10 in an American grocery store. We got a selection for a charcuterie board, and everyone had different favorites, but I loved the young goat cheese – don’t hesitate.
- Bean in Dingle. I had what might have been the best cappuccino of my life at this shop, which roasts its beans locally in Kerry. Absolutely perfect foam, and huge, which you don’t always find in Europe. It’s been a week and I’m still dreaming about that caffeinated cup of heaven!
- Murphy’s Ice Cream. This is some of the creamiest, dreamiest ice cream I’ve had in a while, and its incredible flavor and texture comes from the Irish dairy milk. If you’ve ever had Kerrygold butter, this comes from the same cows. My mother-in-law said the company, which is a local chain, recently got a distribution agreement to bring pints to US grocery stores, so keep an eye out!
Testing the water at the beach on the Dingle Peninsula
Dingle also has a famous resident – Fungie the dolphin. He’s a bit of a local legend, having supposedly lived in the harbor for upwards of 30 years after getting separated from his pod. We didn’t spot him on our visit, but we did get a photo with the statue in town commemorating his residency.
Carrauntoohil
My husband and I love hiking, so when he suggested we climb the tallest mountain in Ireland, which is just a 20-minute drive from his parents’ house, I quickly agreed. It wasn’t an easy hike: it took us almost 7 hours and the elevation gain was roughly 4,000 feet. But I would recommend it to anyone who likes to break a good sweat and wants to get up close with the famous Irish countryside.
The ascent started with a pleasant walk through a lush valley dotted with sheep and wildflowers. This led us to a lake that sat at the base of a section called “Devil’s Ladder”. The name was accurate: we climbed for over an hour up an active waterfall, wading in a stream as we weaved on all fours through boulders of various sizes. At the top, there was a small saddle which was a welcome relief, as well as the perfect spot for a break.
With lots of Irish candy and Hob Knobs to fuel me, I pressed on toward the top, which was shrouded in the typical Irish fog. This turned out to be a good thing – I had no idea that we were only about halfway up, and a long slog remained. When I saw the cross that marks the summit, I was more than ready to finish the climb.
The descent followed the same path back to the saddle, then ascended a beautiful ridgeline with sweeping views to both sides. This was possibly my favorite part of the hike. It felt like walking in an impressionist painting. From there we followed a more forgiving set of switchbacks down a mountainside that faced the infamous Devil’s Ladder, and got back on the path down the valley to return to the car.
On the way down, looking out over the valley
We rewarded ourselves with a pint and a “toastie”, a traditional Irish pub food that is basically a grilled cheese with the best ham you’ll ever have.
Killarney
My father-in-law loves horses, so he took us to the Killarney races. Horse racing in Ireland is a cultural experience; everyone we met said this was their favorite way to spend a Saturday. It felt like the Kentucky Derby, with dresses, hats, and champagne everywhere. However, unlike in the US, we were allowed to walk right up to the fence to get closer to the action. I knew nothing about the horses, but used the race program to make some picks with the “tote” who came around to our table in the restaurant to take our bets. No winners for me unfortunately, but my father-in-law correctly picked a steeplechase winner. Win or lose, rooting for (or against) each others’ picks was a fun way to get into the action as a family.
Arriving at the Killarney Races
We went into the “big city” for some shopping, and came across the sweater emporium of my dreams at Quills. The shop had all the local products we’d seen in boutiques around the coast, with the most helpful staff who answered questions and recommended things that would work for my lifestyle back home. We left with four pieces, all of which would look as at home on the Midcoast of Maine as they would in the Irish countryside. This isn’t always the case when I buy souvenirs, so I especially appreciated the curated selection and saleswoman’s helpful advice.
For dinner, don’t miss the Panorama restaurant at The Europe hotel. As the name suggests, it has huge windows that overlook the lake and provide a perfect vantage point to watch the sunset. We love oysters, and enjoyed an especially creative presentation with apple foam, beets, and caviar. But the real star for us was dessert: get the berries and chantilly cream, you won’t be disappointed.
I can’t write about Ireland without mentioning driving. All of the above required weaving across the countryside through a tangled network of country roads. My husband spent lots of time in Ireland growing up, and volunteered to take on all of the driving, which was a relief for two reasons. In Ireland, they drive on the left, which I know I’d forget at the most inopportune time. Even more concerning was the width of the roads. Frequently we’d find ourselves on a one-lane road with a car hurtling toward us at the speed limit of 80 km/hr. One party had to pull over into the bushes to allow the other to pass, and blind corners were everywhere. I think I held my breath for most of the first two days, but eventually I realized that the difficulty means Irish drivers are a lot more skilled than their US counterparts.
Come back next week for my recap of Skellig Michael, which was a once-in-a-lifetime experience!